Many people have experienced confusing moments when it comes to choosing the right hair care products and building the right hair care routine that fits perfectly for them. Curly hair is a wonderfully diverse texture, but this variety also makes for some differences in what works for some and what fails for others. Knowing which curly hair category your curls fall into can help you build a hair care routine that works with your special texture, not against it.
Why It’s Important to Understand Curly Hair Categories
Not all curls are created equal. Most commonly attributed to stylist André Walker, the curl typing system categorizes curls by numbers (Type 1-4) and by letter (A, B, C), which indicates the general shape and texture category of the hair and the diameter and width of the curl pattern, respectively.
No system is foolproof, but awareness of your curly hair category will help you select the best products, techniques and tools, and avoid trying countless different hair care products and methods for years.
Main Categories of Curly Hair
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Wavy hair is a blend of straight and curly hair. You can notice an “S” shape with loose curls, and it is more susceptible to frizz and humidity than straight hair, but is less prone to dryness as compared to tighter curl patterns.
2A – Fine, light waves that lie fairly flat to the head.
2B- Medium textured waves with more defined “S” bends.
2C- Thick, coarse waves which begin at the roots, and are most likely to frizz.
Best care approach: Lightweight mousses, curl-enhancing creams and diffusing over heat styling. Stay away from the heavy butters and oils that can weigh down waves.
Type 3: Curly Hair
It’s the classic curl: springy, full and defined. Type 3 hair can be loose curls or tight corkscrews and is one of the more popular types of curly hairstyles in the mainstream beauty industry.
3A: Large, loose curls are approximately the width of a piece of sidewalk chalk. Shiny and well-defined.
3B: Springy ringlets can be pencil-width or marker-width. The more volume, the more frizz potential.
3C: Tight corkscrew curls that are densely curled. Hair that is voluminous and prone to shrinkage.
Best care approach: Moisture is the key. Co-washing, leave-in conditioners and the Curly Girl Method work wonderfully with Type 3 hair. Do not use sulfates or silicones, which remove natural oils.
Type 4: Coily / Kinky Hair
Type 4 is on the most tightly coiled end of the categories of curly hair spectrum. This hair type shrank the most in size (occasionally up to 70% of the real hair length), and it needs the most intensive amount of moisture retention.
4A: Coils that are soft and well defined, like a crochet needle. Holds some moisture but requires regular hydration.
4B: It is an A “Z”-shaped pattern. Coils with less definition and considerable shrinkage. Great for versatility in style.
4C: The tightest, most fragile coil pattern. Knots and breakage are common occurrences, and the most moisture and gentle handling is needed.
Best hair care approach: The best approach for coily/kinky hair is to focus on consistent hydration, gentle handling, andmoisture retention. Deep conditioning every week, protective styles and satin/silk pillow cases are essential for healthy Type 4 hair.
Tips That Apply to Every Curly Hair Category
Whether you are on one side of the curl curve or the other, there are some general guidelines to follow:
Hydration first. Curly hair, regardless of its category, is naturally dry in comparison to straight hair, since the natural oils of the scalp struggle to take their journey down the curly hair shaft.
Detangle gently: Always detangle from ends to roots, ideally with a wide-toothed comb on wet, conditioned hair.
Less heat, more love. Curl pattern will be affected by heat styling over time. Instead, always allow your hair to let it air dry or use a diffuser on a low-heat setting.
Know your porosity. Along with knowing your curls, you also need to know your porosity — the absorbency and moisture retention of your hair, so that you can choose the right hair care products.
Find Your Curl, Find Your Routine
Knowing just what type of curly hair you have is not a matter of placing your curls inside a box- it’s about giving your curls exactly what they need. It doesn’t matter if you’re rocking beachy 2B waves or a glorious 4C crown; the right knowledge makes the journey of curls from frustrating to fulfilling. Looking to up your curl game? Stop by Curly Girls, your one-stop solution for professional curly hair advice, best haircuts for curly hair, and everything your curls deserve!